In an attempt to avoid having to deal with Swiss visa applications (on that note, any Swiss Addicks out there, would you mind dropping me a PM) I figured I'd put something down in writing about my recent trip to Luo Ping and I figured I might as well share if with those of you on CL.
We set off to Luo Ping on Monday morning with a 3 and a half hour train journey from Kunming. I'd already had pretty much all my friends warn me not to go to the station, after the terrorist attacks of Saturday, however we decided to go anyway. The train station was a very strange place to be, standing in line, exactly where 33 people had died just days before. I obviously didn't take any pictures inside the station as that just didn't seem right, however we passed a lot of groups of soldiers on the way to the station.
Now I'm not a massive fan of train travel, especially away from the fast trains found in the richer parts of China. However, the beauty of Yunnan certainly makes journeys on the slowest trains on earth more enjoyable.
We'd traveled to Luo Ping to see the rape seed flowers, which turn the entire area into a see of yellow at this time of year. Once we arrived in town we soon realised this was going to be the only thing worth seeing, the town itself was a dump. It was also very quickly apparent from all the staring and gasps of "lowai" (foreigner) that once again I was going to be the center of attention for most of the trip. Anyway, we dumped our bags at the hotel and headed off to get the bus to a local waterfall.
One of my favourite things about travelling in rural China is often the actual travelling, it's almost always mind blowing, this trip was to be no different. When I said bus earlier, what I meant was a battered old Chinese "bread van" which had 10 seats and two little tiny plastic stools, when my girlfriend and I got onto the bus there was one seat left and one plastic stool, now, as much as I'd have loved to to be a gentlemen and sit on the little stool, those who know me will understand why that was never going to work. So off we set to the waterfall, around 30km. The ride was bumpy, we got stuck behind every type of vehicle possible but finally we arrived, the bus driver collected our fare (60p each) and told us what way we had to walk. An older Chinese man got off the bus at the same time as us, at I guess I would say he was in his mid 60's, he offered to walk us to the top of the waterfall and take us down in his horse drawn carriage, sounded like a good idea and a bargain, as he only wanted £1 to take us. Like most conversations between men in China, it involved exchanging of cigarettes and instantly smoking them, so I lit his cigarette and instantly realised he must have been smoking cardboard, however once I've lit it I've got to smoke it, in order to avoid causing him to lose face, what makes it even worse is once I've accepted the first one, there's no turning back, I have to accept the repeat offers to matter what pace he smokes out.
One of the biggest problem for me travelling outside of cities, is very few people speak Mandarin, you can travel relatively small distances and discover a new dialect. My Mandarin is basic, so dialects can be a real problem, luckily my girlfriend is from Kunming, so although she doens't know the other dialects she can get by in Yunnan. Totally unrelated to what we had been talking about, our new tour guide decides to tell my girlfriend she's very lucky to have found herself a foreign boyfriend, a little shocked (as most people give her grief for going out with a foreigner, especially in rural areas) she asked why she was so luck, well, of course, all foreigners are rich he replied, understanding what he had said I laughed and told him that certainly wasn't the case for me. He accepted I was probably being honest and insulted my chosen brand of cigarettes, which was quite cheeky considering the garbage he was smoking.
We carried on walking and after about 10minutes of conversation being translated back and forth from Luo Ping hua to English we arrived, we both instantly realised all of the craziness had been worth it, the view was stunning.
Off we set down the hills to reach the bottom of the mountain, fortunately at this point smokey joe had realised we didn't really want to continue a conversation that had to we spoken in 3 languages, so he left us alone to talk to each other and enjoy the view. Once we arrived at the bottom I had to accept another horrible cigarette, happy in the knowledge I could put this one out as soon as he was out of sight.
Now, if we'd enjoyed the view from the top, the one at the bottom was even more beautiful, especially as we'd arived as the sun was starting to set behind the waterfall.
We decided to jump on a little bamboo boat for a spin around the pool, the guy steering the boat got a little too close to the waterfalls and everyone got soaked, on such a lovely warm day it didn't really matter.
Once off the boat we walked down the river heading towards the bus stop, walking past what seemed to be a never ending steam of couples taking there wedding pictures, two common themes was the same for every couple, every man looked totally and utterly fed up, after what I can only imagine must have been hours and hours of endless photo's and every girl had the most ridiculous high heels on, resulting in the pissed off men having to carry them pretty much everywhere.
We spent a few hours walking around and then decided to head back to the hotel for a bit of, errrr, rest, before we went for dinner. During the journey back another older couple asked the driver about how to get to various places they wanted to visit the next day, the driver explained that he would take them anywhere they wanted, all day, for about £20, at which point we said it would make sense if we joined them, as obviously, £20 between 4 is cheaper than £20 between 2. We explained to the other couple that the only problem might be that we wanted to be out in the fields early enough to see sunrise, meaning we'd have to set off at about 5:45, no problem they said, so all was agreed and we got out the bus and set off having agreed the bus would pick us up from our hotel in time to see the sunrise.
So, dinner time arrived and my girlfriend had decided we where going to enjoy the local specialty of pig feet hot pot for dinner,now as grim as that sounds I had very little choice. Eating is basically a Chinese past time it's something they do almost constantly, eat, eat, eat, eat, eat, eat. So any trip away instantly becomes a game of hunt down the local food. Knowing I'd have to way to win this battle I agreed.
I have to be honest, the meal was amazing, we sat and ate our through a massive steaming pot of meat shaved from the pigs feet, potatoes, tofu and tons of other veg, it was delicious.
pt2 to follow.
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Once we'd finished and paid we left the restaurant to head back to the hotel, it was at this point I realised the guy had not been messing around, I was wasted. I don't really remember much of the walk back, I just know I had an terrible headache when the alarm went off at 5:20 in the morning.
The morning had arrived, I wanted nothing more than to stay in bed and sleep through the hangover, obviously that was not going to be an option, so I got up and we left the hotel. We got outside the hotel, f***, all we could see was fog, trying to persuade ourselves we hadn't woken up at this ungodly hour for nothing we agreed the fog would vanish as the sun came up and all would be fine. It didn't. It wasn't.
We enjoyed the view, through the fog as much as we could but it wasn't great, so we set off to find something to eat for breakfast, once we'd finished, most of the fog had gone and we could carry on enjoying the scenery, which was incredible, a never ending sea of yellow in every direction.
If ever you want to swap places I could go to China and you could have the rapeseed factory in Belvedere.
Another for my bucket list (which is already overflowing).
Thanks for sharing.
Somehow this little guy snuck in
By this point I'd realised the bloke I was sharing the journey with was going to make the guy from the day before seem like a part time smoker, it was almost chain smoking, so I'd decided early on I'd stay away from him to avoid having to smoke a cig every 10 minutes, however, as we are going to spend a lot of the day in a bus together I still had a problem to deal with, so I explained that I didn't want to smoke on the bus as my girlfriend didn't smoke and that wouldn't be fair on her. Mistake. This started a massive argument and his wife demanded to know why he couldn't show her the same courtesy, ah, simple, foreigners don't know how to treat their women.
With the argument continuing we drove through more stunning countryside in our way to Duoyi River, home of the Buyi ethnic minority.
This part of the trip was most uneventful, we just walked around soaking up the amazing view, sadly, had we taken our trip a week later, we would have been able to enjoy the scenes of the Buyi water festival.
Still, I can't complain too much as everywhere we went was beatiful beyond belief.
I hope you've enjoyed the post/pictures, if you ever find yourself in China around this time of year, Luo Ping really should be on your list of places to see.
I'll be going away again in a week or two, if people want I'll try and put together another journal of the adventures of Yuan and Stu.
If anyone wants to see the full collection of pictures, they are here: https://www.facebook.com/stuart.vickers/media_set?set=a.10152636383662892.1073741834.629847891&type=3
It has wetted my appetite for a trip we have planned in April to China.
We are going on a tour with China Links travel - I have posted the Itinerary below so not sure if you or any other lifers have done anything similar and can offer tips or advice. Looking at where Kunming is I appreciate it is pretty far away from where we are going but you never know.
Thanks
Beijing (D)
Upon arrival, be met and transferred to the hotel for a 3 night stay.
D3 19/04/2014 Beijing (BLD)
In the morning we will visit the Temple of Heaven and then stroll through Tiananmen Square, and then enter the incredible Forbidden City.
D4 20/04/2014 Beijing (BLD)
Visit the Great Wall at Mutianyu. In the evening there will be a sumptuous Peking Duck Dinner.
D5 21/04/2014 Beijing – Xian (BLD)
After breakfast we will go to the summer palace, and also see some of the 2008 Olympic venues such as the Birds Nest and the Water Cube. In the afternoon we will go to the Hutongs and learn about the daily life of ordinary Beijing citizens. Later in the evening catch a flight to Xian.
D6 22/04/2014 Xian (BLD)
Visit the Terracotta Warriors in the morning, after lunch visit the Small Wild Goose Pagoda and then visit the Muslim Quarter to the local market and to see local people’s lives. In the evening enjoy a Dumpling Dinner and the Tang Dynasty Show.
D7 23/04/2014 Xian – Guilin (BLD)
In the morning visit the Shaanxi Historical Museum. Visit the Ancient City Wall to explore on foot or by bicycle. Catch a flight to Guilin.
D8 24/04/2014 Guilin – Yangshuo (BLD)
Cruise along the Li River and enjoy the breathtaking landscape of limestone hills, tranquil fishing scenes and peaceful villages. This evening watch the Cormorant Fishing Show. Overnight in Yangshuo.
Just a little note: As this is a special day, between Guilin and Yangshou there is the Li River Cruise, when you arrive at your hotel you have a bit of free time, take a walk on West Street, it’s a really pretty area to have a wonder around, if you find a nice restaurant that you would like to eat in then you will be able to tell the guide that you want to be free and do your own thing.
D9 25/04/2014 Yangshuo (BLD)
The morning is free for leisure, you can walk along West Street to see the beautiful surroundings or have an optional bamboo rafting. In the afternoon we will walk along the Yulong River to visit the local countryside families. This evening have the option to watch Liusanjie show.
D10 26/04/2014 Guilin – Shanghai (BLD)
In the morning we will visit the Reed Flute Caves - a remarkable collection of colourfully illuminated stalactites and stalagmites. Visit Fubo Hill and Elephant Trunk Hill for panoramic views of Guilin. In the evening catch a flight to Shanghai.
D11 27/04/2014 Suzhou (BLD)
An excursion to the beautiful city of Suzhou, known as the "Venice of the East" renowned for its attractive gardens, such as the Master of the Nets Garden. Enjoy a cruise on the Grand Canal - the largest in China. We will also visit the Panmen Gate and Silk Museum.
D12 28/04/2014 Shanghai (BLD)
Today's city tour will include visits to Yu Yuan Gardens and the Jade Buddha Temple. We will also see the Shanghai Museum and The Bund. In the afternoon we will visit the Shanghai World Financial Centre for stunning views of the whole city from the top of one of the world's tallest buildings.
D13 29/04/2014 Shanghai – Hong Kong (B)
After breakfast, check out of the hotel, transfer to the airport for your flight Hong Kong.
Upon arrival, transfer to your hotel for a 2 night stay. Rest of the day at your leisure.
D14 30/04/2014 Hong Kong (B)
Today we have a half day island tour, starting in the morning we visit Victoria Peak with a tram ride up, Stanley Market, Repulse Bay and Aberdeen. Afternoon is free for you to explore.
D15 01/05/2014 Hong Kong – London (B)
Looks worth a trip.
Have seen the use of stools in buses, as well as a detachable gear stick.
Curious about the food. Over here we eat chops, bacon etc and throw some of the rest of the animal away (or use it for fast food), yet the Chinese eat the stuff we don't like pigs feet. Do the Chinese throw away bacon etc or do they eat the entire animal nose to tail?
However Chicken breast is dirt cheap and considered the worst part.
Beijing - Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Great Wall, all must-sees.
Xian just brilliant.
Shanghai has changed a lot since I first went in the early 80's ... the main attraction then was the Bund with some terrific bars and restaurants. Was fascinating over the years to watch Pudong grow across the river. Pudong is now packed with shopping, eating, museums and very futuristic.
Suzhou is a lovely place.
Hong Kong, you are doing the right thing going up to the Peak by Tram ... great ride. Hopefully it will be a clear day and you can see across the harbour.
Thanks for the feedback, really looking forward to the trip now.
Don't normally do guided trips but as it is our first time in China we wanted to have the peace of mind of not being on our own.
Do you know where the company is based? My friend is a tour guide in Shanghai, so I'll ask him if he knows the company.
You're gonna love Guilin and Yanhshuo.
They seem to get good reviews, my other half did most of the research but as you say there is always a chance we will spend most of the time being sold to by their mates or relatives but that is always a risk with guided tours.
They provided a list of hotels and were all 4 star so hopefully the food will be ok.
I think we are realistic enough to know this trip will be a "china light" one, but will give us the taste and knowledge that if we want to return under our own steam we have more confidence to do so and spend more time at the places we liked and skip the ones we didn't.
We will be in Guilin on the night of my 50th birthday and watching the Cormorant Fishing so that should be a memorable way to celebrate my half century.
Thanks for the info so far.
but... you thought it would be a good idea to hit the baijiu? surely a mistake made once and never again?
trip posted above looks great.... but excludes the adventure of the wild north west
interesting to hear so many addicks wanting to visit china...
i'd be happy to advise if anyone ever heads my way
I have about 20 liters of amazing Hanni baijui at home that my housemate brought back from Pu'uer.
In Beijing. Dashilar shopping street is also well worth it, as is the llama temple. Use the underground system it is excellent. Also go to the Art district, very impressive.
Xian and the Terracotta Warriors is brilliant, and I also think the Shaanxi Historical Museum is very good too.
Intend to venture further on my next visit to China.
Proper cameras take better pictures, but also look more conspicuous, you wouldn't want to get your camera out in front of Chinese soldiers...