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South East Asia - Travelling - Advice!

Good afternoon Lifers,


I’ve handed my notice in at my job, put my house on Airbnb, been pumped full of vaccinations and have booked a ticket to Bangkok to start 6 months of travelling. 


I’ll be spending most of my time in South-East Asia, roughly in this order: 

Thailand -> Cambodia -> Vietnam -> Laos -> Thailand -> Malaysia -> Indonesia -> Philippines -> Japan (for a couple weeks snowboarding) -> Hong Kong and then back to the UK for a wedding.


Has anybody done anything similar? Any advice? Visa advice? Things to pack?


Any recommendations? I haven’t really planned any of it so I’m very open to people’s suggestions. Are there any must see things? 

Or things to avoid? 


Any ideas of how much it might cost? There’ll be two of us and we’re hoping to not go over £10,000, our flights have already been booked and we know Skiing in Japan probably won’t be cheap so that won’t be included in the £10,000 budget.


Lots of questions, hopefully you lot will have some answers!


Cheers,

SWEnglandAddick

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Comments

  • That sounds brilliant. It's a long time since I was in SE Asia so I can't help with costings but I do remember that it's really easy to get infections out there. Keep some iodine on you and wipe it on any bites or cuts. I'm so jealous. 
  • Did you watch Race Across The World? Some that was in Cambodia, Vietnam etc etc. Travel seemed pretty cheap and plenty of options.
  • edited July 2019
    Don't overplan it, book accommodation on the go so you can stay longer if you like somewhere. Don't book buses until ready to leave either, theyre all frequent. You can stick to a low budget in all those places, honestly if I'd gone tee-total I'd have been able to backpack for twice as long there and South America. 

    Thailand is overrated I think, ruined by tourism unless you pick carefully. Bangkok and Patong are two of the worst places I've been. In the latter I arrived, had a look out the window, bought a bus ticket out then took some valium to see me through til morning. 

    Kuala Lumpur is worth a few nights, lots to do and lovely food. Where in Indonesia? I can help with Sumatra, it's hard going but very rewarding.

    I had a brilliant time in Siem Reap (by Angkor Wat) as well. Used to be 50c a beer on Pub Street, can't be more than a dollar now. I got stuck there for 8 days I think. 

    Animal person or not I'd really recommend visiting rainforest as it is unique, humbling and memorable. Khao Yai a few hours from Bangkok is the best mix of accessibility and chances of seeing wildlife. I say this to everyone who goes to Thailand - please do not give money to anyone with wild animals! The Thai resorts are awful for this. Elephant riding is also terribly cruel. 

    Let me know if you need anything more specific. 
  • I did the same when I was 21 (not the putting my house on air b&b though).

    Will always remember the feeling of freedom as we were in the cab to central Bangkok from the airport. Made it through Thailand, Malaysia and ended up in Singapore. 

    I only lasted just under a month and came home skint & jobless but was still one of the best things I ever did.


  • edited July 2019
    did it 1989 . 

    take the night train from BK to Butterworth in Malasia and get the ferry to George Town in Panag 

    Train 2nd class air con. Dinning car was one of the best experiences ----all windows wide open the chefs doing their stuff over woks full of oil as the train motors through the night----- probably all gone these days 
  • @DaveMehmet in Thailand, something nightmares are made of. 😉
  • Many years ago with me as well.
    down south to Surat Thani on the overnight bus, boat to Samui, Pha Ngan then Tao.
    Had it down to a £5 a day. That got my Khong Tip cigarettes, Bottle of Mehong, Corrugated iron beach front hut and food.
    Thats when you could get a proper omelette on an island with no electricity.
    Now they have airports.
    Wouldnt want to go back following how it was, to what it is now.
  • I know Thailand, Malaysia and the Philippines fairly well. As for visas, to the best of my knowledge, you will only need a visa for Cambodia. You can get visa on arrival now in Vietnam and also in Indonesia (but make sure you have some US Dollars handy for the visa in Indonesia).

    I can offer a lot advice on the three countries I mentioned, but what sort of thing do you want? Do you want nice beaches, busy/quiet beaches, cities, local life in small/medium towns, boozy nights/lively nightlife, travel on the cheap/flights between each country? I'm quite good on where you can fly to and from easily at low cost if that helps. Give me a few clues as to what you want. 
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  • Some great advice, cheers guys.

    @RedPanda thanks mate. Not planning on staying in Thailand too long as I’m not a fan of big tourist traps. We’re staying in Bangkok for 3 nights then heading down to Trat/Koh Mak for 7 nights to sit on beaches and plan the rest of the trip then on to Siem Reap. Haven't really thought about the Indonesia part of the trip yet but Sumatra sounds good.

    @thai malaysia addick we mostly want to just do whatever we want whenever we want. I’m not a fan of big touristy things mostly because of the amount of people and getting harassed but we do plan to see most the big sites. We enjoy a few beers but not really looking to party, good bars and good food is what we enjoy most and snorkelling. My girlfriend is a geologist so no doubt she’ll be dragging me into many caves. If I had to sum it up it would be: good food, swimming/snorkelling, a few beers most nights and good scenery (I’m a keen photographer/videographer).

    A friend of mine just rented a motorbike and travelled from Ho Hi Minh to Hanoi and back (only breaking down on the last mile!). She said it was really good, very dangerous but a great experience, so we’re considering doing Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi (not back) to give us the freedom to see Vietnam and stop wherever we like whenever we like.




  • I've got a few ideas.

    Thailand - Beer is always easy to find in Thailand, so that's not an issue. I think the scenery in the north of Thailand is excellent. Chiang Mai is a nice old city (not mad and busy like Bangkok). Near to Chiang Mai is Mae Hong Son, which is close to the Myanmar border. The scenery there is brilliant. It's not the liveliest at night but you can get decent food and beer without any trouble. As you say, a lot of Thailand is quite touristy but there are some quieter islands if you want beaches - they are just a bit more effort to reach.

    Malaysia - Kuala Lumpur is a nice city to visit and well worth seeing. Outside of KL, there are some beautiful resorts but they can be a bit full. Penang is quite nice - there's a touristy beach which is nice (Batu Ferringhi), but I quite like Georgetown which is more of a small city with a beachfront but less beachy, if you get what I mean. It has some interesting history and is quite an interesting place to eat, drink and travel around.

    Sarawak and Sabah are worth a visit. There's some good places and some boring places. I like Kuching. It's nothing special but just a nice town with small narrow streets, markets and decent bars/restaurants. I've only been to Sabah a couple of times, but there is a good wildlife sanctuary somewhere near Sandakan. But, don't expect wild nights in Sandakan.

    Philippines - So many great places to visit. Honda Bay is amazing scenery near Puerto Princesa. The town of PP itself is nothing special but does have a couple of nice restaurants and bars. Boracay which is the most beach resort is a problem right now as they closed it for 6 months due to over-tourism and have only recently opened it in a limited way as I understand. Manila is a bit hit and miss unless you know where to go, but I love the city. I like eating and drinking around Malate, which has its iffy bits but is still fascinating, I think. Cebu is again a mixed city although I quite like it but the island off Cebu, Mactan Island, is really nice with some other islands near it. Alona Beach is a place that is on the up in Philippines too and now has an airport nearby. El Nido and Coron on Palawan Island are amazing for scenery.

    Although I am not an expert on Vietnam, you must go to Hoi An, it's an hour from Da Nang and just magical. Google Hoi An and look at the images and you'll see why.

    As for airlines, Air Asia (locally known as Air Delaysia) cover a lot of routes cheaply between most Asian countries - they are OK. Cebu Pacific are cheap around Philippines. 

    Let me know if you need more help.
  • did it 1989 . 

    take the night train from BK to Butterworth in Malasia and get the ferry to George Town in Panag 

    Train 2nd class air con. Dinning car was one of the best experiences ----all windows wide open the chefs doing their stuff over woks full of oil as the train motors through the night----- probably all gone these days 
    @Goonerhater  The wife and I went to Penang in October for a week, what an amzing place, full of history and beaty, oddly not somewhere you hear a lot of people going to!


    As for the rest of your trip Cambodia is, Imo, the gem of SE Asia.  Kampot is literally heaven on earth!

  • What a great plan and I agree with the above advice about not getting bogged down by an itinerary. If you don't mind going basic- cheap hut on the beach with a fan and shower etc or a hostel in the cities, you will have no need to worry about budget. Agree with Stu about Penang (Georgetown) and Melakka is also worth a call. You can do those in combination with Langkawi (fun in the sun) by ferry up the Strait of Melakka for peanuts.

    Ko Chang archipelago in Thailand is still wonderful (easy from Bangkok) if you keep heading south but NOT under any circumstances Phukhet or even more disgusting, Pattaya. From Trat you can cross the  border into  northern Cambodia which is wonderful but has some lovely spots screwed up by mass Korean /Chinese tourism (casinos/high rise hotels). Sihanoukeville is going down hill  but of you can get out to some of its outlying islands there are some really weird and wonderful spots to disappear in paradise. Hoi An is a bit "Europeans do Asia" as is Luang Prabang in Laos but both make charming, albeit slightly artificial soft landings, while climatising to the south-east Asian scene. 

    I spent several weeks in Myanmar (Burma) and that is possibly the most fascinating of all but not soft or user friendly and any well known tourist spot (Bagan) can be surprisingly expensive. Rhakine province is fabulous (Ngpalii) if you steer clear of the trouble spots. You will need a visa in advance (at least you did). On a boring note, the one sensible precaution is to invest in decent travel/medical insurance, just in case. The Post Office used to do the best long term one but not sure of they they still do or if there are still any Post Offices left.

    Tough to summarise such a vast and diverse area  with so much natural beauty and culture but if you are comfortable off-grid and you want to be adventurous and see something different just get as far away from places with airports as possible. Stick to buses, trains and ferries and just get lost. Even if you prefer to play safe and just tick off boxes and see the tourist spots, you will have a great time. Enjoy. 
  • Yeh avoid Pattaya and Phuket like the plague.

    Ko Lanta is lovely
  • Lots of good advice. I'd go along with the not getting too tied down with advanced bookings.

    Northern Thailand is stunning and worth a few days, get the sleeper from BKK. As for the tourist areas, yep there are some places that have been over commercialised here in the last 15 years. There are still some great islands and beaches though, Koh Mak, Koh Kood and parts of Koh Chang are very nice. Some areas of Phuket and Pattaya are to be avoided, other parts are ok. I personally escape BKK to one of the 5* hotels at the northern end of Pattaya (Hard Rock, Holiday Inn or Amari) and don't leave that little stretch. Same in Phuket Mai Khao is nice and you get some good pics of planes if that's your thing. Cape Panwa also nice. 

    Malaysia has some cracking beaches and I'd recommend the Perhentians. Cities and towns in Malaysia I'm not much of an expert on. I hate KL but I know others like it. Penang has some good photo opportunities and a nice mix of cultures. 

    Vietnam is a very cheap and currently my favourite escape from Bangkok. Da Nang is interesting and worth a look, as well as the north above Hanoi. HCMC is good for a sit down, grab a coffee and watch the world go by. 

    For Japan, as well as the big cities I'd recommend Fukuoka for some peace and quiet, a nice beach and an example of a more typical Japanese city. Naha on Okinawa is also quite good fun and a very different kind of view of Japan. 

    I think you are doing it the right way though. You'll find your own way and own journey. Go with the flow and have an amazing time.
  • Oh and enjoy having the shits like you've never known!

    As a general rule, the grimmer a place looks, the better the food will be. Look for places the locals are eating.
  • Just remembered another one for Thailand. Koh Samet is small and laid back. It’s on the way to Koh Chang which someone else mentioned. It’s hard to get a taxi over the mountain to the other side of the island as they don’t like going past the ghosts.
  • A Yakult a day keeps the doctor away!
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  • Take a small towel, and understand that getting things dry after washing them can be nigh impossible due to the humidity. Have a good hat. Bite cream. Mossie repellent. US dollars for visas. Overnight buses are a cheap way of travel. Trains are fun but can be hit or miss and often severely delayed. Haggle when you buy stuff but appreciate that 10p might be a lot to the person you are buying from. If you go to Sandakan (for Sepilok orang utan sanctuary), take the road trip back to KK, the route of the death march. Poring hot springs, and Mt Kinabalu worth visiting, and climbing if you can. Mulu has the most wondrous caves I've ever been to (bar Carlsbad Caverns)...simply enormous, and in the jungle. The east coast of Malaysia (around Teregaru) has good beaches and snorkelling, and not many tourists. Beer is expensive in Malaysia compared to the other countries. Penang is great. A smile will get you a long way. Ask before taking people pictures and show them afterwards. Hue and Da Nang are good to visit. Have fun!
  • edited July 2019
    Whenever possible (when traveling around outside of towns and cities), have a “shit kit” with you.

    SOUNDAS ESSENTIAL EMERGENCY TRAVEL SHIT KIT.

    Comprising of:-

    Toilet Roll
    Antibacterial Hand Wash
    Small Hand Towel
    Toilet Wipes (optional).
    Can be put into a small suitable bag or toiletries bag.

    May seem a bit OTT to some of you but believe you me a godsend when you find yourself in a situation where there are little or no toilet facilities.
  • edited July 2019
    Some great advice, cheers guys.

    @RedPanda thanks mate. Not planning on staying in Thailand too long as I’m not a fan of big tourist traps. We’re staying in Bangkok for 3 nights then heading down to Trat/Koh Mak for 7 nights to sit on beaches and plan the rest of the trip then on to Siem Reap. Haven't really thought about the Indonesia part of the trip yet but Sumatra sounds good.


    I went to Medan in Sumatra which is a total hovel. Bukit Lawang & Gunung Leuser National Park are a few hours north though and is one the best places to see orangutans. Then I went to Lake Toba which is a volcanic lake and has an island in the middle. The island is really relaxed, quiet, obviously scenic and mushrooms were/are legal. My hostel was great too, they’re not everyone’s scene but you can always get a private room for privacy and peace. If there’s a bar you will meet some cool people. Indonesia you don't get the divvy gap year kids either, except for Bali I imagine.

     I made the stupid decision to fly out of Padang and it took 27 hours to get there from Toba. If you do Sumatra then you’re best off going back to Medan then you can fly on to KL, Singapore or Penang. I’ll +1 the Penang shouts, there’s not that much to do but it’s a nice stop-off point and the food was excellent.

  • Oh and enjoy having the shits like you've never known!

    As a general rule, the grimmer a place looks, the better the food will be. Look for places the locals are eating.
    Not sure about that.
    Got one of those goldfish bag type dinners from someone who sold through the train window.
    My god, got to Bangkok and had to run to get a shower key.
    Just stood in the cubicle naked puking and shitting at the same time.
    My god, i was rough.
  • Yea I don't think train food counts
  • My RedPanda said:
    Some great advice, cheers guys.

    @RedPanda thanks mate. Not planning on staying in Thailand too long as I’m not a fan of big tourist traps. We’re staying in Bangkok for 3 nights then heading down to Trat/Koh Mak for 7 nights to sit on beaches and plan the rest of the trip then on to Siem Reap. Haven't really thought about the Indonesia part of the trip yet but Sumatra sounds good.


    I went to Medan in Sumatra which is a total hovel. Bukit Lawang & Gunung Leuser National Park are a few hours north though and is one the best places to see orangutans. Then I went to Lake Toba which is a volcanic lake and has an island in the middle. The island is really relaxed, quiet, obviously scenic and mushrooms were/are legal. My hostel was great too, they’re not everyone’s scene but you can always get a private room for privacy and peace. If there’s a bar you will meet some cool people. Indonesia you don't get the divvy gap year kids either, except for Bali I imagine.

     I made the stupid decision to fly out of Padang and it took 27 hours to get there from Toba. If you do Sumatra then you’re best off going back to Medan then you can fly on to KL, Singapore or Penang. I’ll +1 the Penang shouts, there’s not that much to do but it’s a nice stop-off point and the food was excellent.

    You've just made me look at up what we did.  We got to Jakarta and wanted to head to Malaysia but missed the boat and the next one wasn't for a week or so... this was 1994 so details are now vague.  We decided to get a coach from Jakarta up to to Padang, Sumatra which must have included a ferry then on to Medan when we must have got another boat.  Scarily i dont remember.  I just know we didnt fly and that we went to Padang and Medan. 

    One thing i do remember was that it was the coach journey from hell through Sumatra.  Broke down an hour in to our journey and broke down about 3 times, dont think i washed for 3 days.  Absolutely rotten.  Was never so pleased to get in to Malaysia.  Cant really remember much about either place, just that i wanted to get out of there, didnt think much of Jakarta either.  Had obviously enjoyed Bali but that was it for my time in Indonesia.  I was not a fan.

    Very jealous of your trip SWEngland.  I know the above journeyed posters have slated Phuket but i have been recently and enjoyed myself, very touristy but still enjoyable. 




  • Nothing really, just a bit jealous. have a great time. 
  • edited July 2019
    Watch the seasons a little. In Thailand at the moment it's low season (until 1st November) and accommodation is very cheap.

    Seems like you've planned your basic itinerary but, as others have said, I'd recommend you leave it as open as you can. Don't book any onward travel online other than flights as it's always cheaper to do it when you are in situ, the exception being if you travel during holiday periods, especially New Year.

    Note that the visa on arrival in Vietnam is only valid for 15 days. If you want longer (and you probably will) you can arrange it online or sort it in Phnom Penh, which is a relatively short ride from Saigon.

    Looking at your itinerary, you'll probably re-enter Thailand near Chiang Rai/Chiang Mai. I don't know when but watch the pollution levels if it's in February/March. This year was dreadful. You've then got a long trip to Malaysia; budget flights can be your best option, though overnight trains are good as well.

    If you're overland, consider leaving Thailand at Satun on the ferry to Langkawi, from where you can also take a boat to Penang.

    Don't miss Borneo. You can use it as your route into Indonesia.

    The snowboarding in Japan sounds great. Look for a budget flight to Sapporo from somewhere - but I seriously advise against carrying any skiwear on the rest of your trip!

    And if you ignore everyone's advice and decide to visit Phuket, please let me know. I've met a few Lifers there and even had some staying at our guesthouse!

  • The awful pollution from Chiang Mai has been Blowing up into Yunnan, it's awful, I love CM but couldnt consider living there
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