Attention: Please take a moment to consider our terms and conditions before posting.

Boiler help please

The next issue in the money pit which is my frickin house is my boiler.
It's a Worcester boiler and the heating just doesn't 'click in' as if it doesn't light.
I have hot water however but when I do a test with the setting button the heating does come on but no hot water.
Any ideas from anybody please or anybody local to falconwood who wouldn't charge the earth to have. Look???
«1

Comments

  • If your system is like mine, the central heating is pressurised. On mine, for it to work the pressure has to be above 1 bar. To increase the pressure I have a small pipe which connects between the central heating pipes and the mains water - I connect that up open the valves and watch the pressure go up. When there is enough pressure I close the valves again. Hope this helps. If not I do know a plumber, but he's not cheap.
  • Sounds like you've got a problem with your actuator. This mechanically changes the boiler function to heating only, hot water only or both at the same time.

    Usually it's a little silver box adjacent to your pump with a manual override on it so you can change the position itself to suit what you want, rather than your programmer telling it what to do.

    If it's sticking (which sounds likely) then it's a fairly cheap component to replace.

    I would advise getting a British Gas 3* service contract. This ensures your boiler is serviced annually (essential) and that any defects on the mechanical and electrical system are seen to fairly quickly and the replacement components are genrally free (the 5* service also includes all the pipework and radiators and is not generally worth the extra).
  • CPL - I have a Worcester too and I am guessing Saga Lout is correct here. Check the pressure gauge. If your boiler is an older type, you should have a small hose connecting two valves (taps) usually the one on the left will allow water into the system and re-pressurise it. You should see the needle move and when you get above the red mark then the pilot should fire. Be careful not to allow too much pressure to build. If yours is a newer Worcester, it may have a white plastic "key" that you fit up a slot between the in and out valves. Once turned it opens the water flow in a similar way to the old connector hose.
  • edited October 2012
    Yes, I should've mentioned that it's not a good idea to over-pressurise the system - I give it the minimum. Especially as my radiators and pipes are antique.
  • My pipes are antique, too.

    I don't want to talk about my old boiler, though.
  • Boom boom! Where's Basil Brush when you need him?
  • I don't think the pressure is the problem here, Worcesters are notoriously good, but they can have dodgy pcb's. If water is hot and the flow is fine the mechanics of the boiler sound ok. The problem with combi boilers is they rely on electrical brains and that can confuse and break them
  • Worcester = cast iron heat exchanger = excellent
  • Addickted said:



    Usually it's a little silver box adjacent to your pump with a manual override on it so you can change the position itself to suit what you want, rather than your programmer telling it what to do.

    If it's sticking (which sounds likely) then it's a fairly cheap component to replace.

    This

    About £20, about 20 mins to change.
    Magnetic valve
  • Thought this was a would ya!
  • Sponsored links:


  • Thank you all the comments ill let you know,
    Appreciated
  • If this magnetic valve stops all the bits of metal from clogging up the system then it sounds like the same problem we had with our worcester bosch combi. We were quoted 140 approx to get it sorted. We haven't had it done yet as they cleaned the last valve and the problem went away (for now).
  • Morning All. Need advice/help with my boiler. N-power changed my meter on Tuesday and "forgot" to relight it. Now they are saying it "the customers" job to relight it, and I haven't a clue about anything about gas and don't want to blow up the flats. Thank You.
  • No expert MOG, but there should be instructions inside the boiler cover/door. If not then try looking it up on the net, I'm sure you will find all the info you need there.....good luck, weve had plenty of central heating problems in the last few years....but it's a neccessary evil.
  • What type of boiler is it P?
  • Very old !
    Baxi Bermuda (45/3M).
  • I think you turn the heat knob round to full, hold it there, push the igniter then release the heat knob after 5/1o seconds.
    Been a while since I've lit one.
  • Just had alook: There is a orange button, a dial (0,low,1,2,3,4,high) and a grey button. Can't see "pilot light" anywhere.
  • MOG if u "ignight" the boiler then the pilot light should stay on even when the boiler switches off (i think)
  • I believe the Bermuda has electronic ignition, so it should light itself once the gas valve opens.

    1) The gas pipe may just need purging of air after the meter change - just turn up the thermostat so it calls for heat - it could take a couple of minutes before the gas comes through to the valve and the boiler fires up.

    2) Usually there's an overheat button on the bottom of the casing - if there, push that as it should light - it works like an eletronic lighter.

    3) Are you sure they turned the gas back on?
  • Sponsored links:


  • edited February 2013
    if its a combi will be the divertor valve im sure. can be a pricey part and on worcester can be a bit difficult to change as they are fiddly boilers
  • do apologise wrong part of thread, you will need to purge the gas supply this means there is air in the pipe basically the grey button should be twisted right for about 5-10 seconds then clicked in and boom boiler should light also make sure heating is turned up via thermostat usually room type
  • Addickted said:

    I believe the Bermuda has electronic ignition, so it should light itself once the gas valve opens.

    1) The gas pipe may just need purging of air after the meter change - just turn up the thermostat so it calls for heat - it could take a couple of minutes before the gas comes through to the valve and the boiler fires up.

    2) Usually there's an overheat button on the bottom of the casing - if there, push that as it should light - it works like an eletronic lighter.

    3) Are you sure they turned the gas back on?

    Yep, the cooker works okay. As I say, Gas/Electric "frighten" me, worried I'll do something wrong.

  • Sorry Paul - is it a back boiler with a gas fire in front?
  • Gas is fundamentally safe. If there's a leak you'll smell it. Just turn off the supply and ventialte the room to prevent build up if you're worried.
  • Addickted said:

    Sorry Paul - is it a back boiler with a gas fire in front?

    Yep. Funnily enough I just tried the fire and it lit up 1st time. Still no hot water or Central heating though. Is it safe to have the gas fire on (its bloody cold!) ?

  • edited February 2013
    Gas fire will be safe to use.
  • Addickted said:

    Gas fire will be safe to use.

    Pdf of the instructions to ignite for your boiler below.

    http://www.aroundtownflats.com/manuals/Boilers/Baxi/Bermuda VP3 & SP3.pdf

  • Followed instructions, Grey button turned right and pushed in and Orange button clicked, but nothing happens. Not even a spark.Anyone know of any gas people in or around Sydenham ?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Roland Out Forever!