@Leroy Ambrose have cycled in France a fair bit as used to live over there.....it's heaven compared to the UK, lovely roads and not a single Range Rover wing mirror buzzing past your head....bliss!! Except for Paris which, as you say, is hell on earth.
Chaps, forgive me if I have asked this before...footwear. Both my bikes have "ordinary" pedals, the ones you don't lock into. But my Lake shoes were designed for locking, and they slip a bit on my pedals. Are there actually cycling shoes for ordinary pedals? My wife reckons there are not, ordinary trainers with softer soles would do the trick. But I am too old for tainers, don't have any. Any reccos for suitable shoes with these pedals? I thank you...
Chaps, forgive me if I have asked this before...footwear. Both my bikes have "ordinary" pedals, the ones you don't lock into. But my Lake shoes were designed for locking, and they slip a bit on my pedals. Are there actually cycling shoes for ordinary pedals? My wife reckons there are not, ordinary trainers with softer soles would do the trick. But I am too old for tainers, don't have any. Any reccos for suitable shoes with these pedals? I thank you...
Chaps, forgive me if I have asked this before...footwear. Both my bikes have "ordinary" pedals, the ones you don't lock into. But my Lake shoes were designed for locking, and they slip a bit on my pedals. Are there actually cycling shoes for ordinary pedals? My wife reckons there are not, ordinary trainers with softer soles would do the trick. But I am too old for tainers, don't have any. Any reccos for suitable shoes with these pedals? I thank you...
Chaps, forgive me if I have asked this before...footwear. Both my bikes have "ordinary" pedals, the ones you don't lock into. But my Lake shoes were designed for locking, and they slip a bit on my pedals. Are there actually cycling shoes for ordinary pedals? My wife reckons there are not, ordinary trainers with softer soles would do the trick. But I am too old for tainers, don't have any. Any reccos for suitable shoes with these pedals? I thank you...
Chaps, forgive me if I have asked this before...footwear. Both my bikes have "ordinary" pedals, the ones you don't lock into. But my Lake shoes were designed for locking, and they slip a bit on my pedals. Are there actually cycling shoes for ordinary pedals? My wife reckons there are not, ordinary trainers with softer soles would do the trick. But I am too old for tainers, don't have any. Any reccos for suitable shoes with these pedals? I thank you...
Arturo @ 75 quid.
Mind you they look a bit retro, not sure that's my thing.
Chaps, forgive me if I have asked this before...footwear. Both my bikes have "ordinary" pedals, the ones you don't lock into. But my Lake shoes were designed for locking, and they slip a bit on my pedals. Are there actually cycling shoes for ordinary pedals? My wife reckons there are not, ordinary trainers with softer soles would do the trick. But I am too old for tainers, don't have any. Any reccos for suitable shoes with these pedals? I thank you...
Arturo @ 75 quid.
Mind you they look a bit retro, not sure that's my thing.
Five Ten FreeRides, perhaps?
Don't know much about them to be honest. Spiuk+look for me.
So despite this piss-miserable weather I'm only 30-miles down on my slightly tweaked (c) @Leroy Ambrose training schedule (80/110). If I manage to overhaul that (despite this weekend being away with the missus=zero miles) then I might get around to posting my justgiving up as I'm a bit behind on that too and I wouldn't want the BHF to hate me
I've just ordered myself a new bike. It's cheaper, less flashy, than my previous one, but I've gone for it as I can get it in an XS (50cm - 51cm) frame.
However, I've just noticed that the cassette range is different to my old bike. The old one was a 11-28, and the new one has a 14-28 tooth. Both are compact chainsets.
My question is - what, generally is the difference, and am I going to notice any difference on a day to day commute?
14-28 would ordinarily give you less jumps between gears, and you wouldn't notice any difference really unless you're a fan of sprinting (no 11,12 or 13 tooth cog means practically nothing unless you like to get over about 23mph). However, I suspect with it being a 14-28, you've moved from 10/11 speed 105/Tiagra to a budget groupset like Sora or Claris, with maybe only 7 or 8 speeds (in which case, you won't notice any more smoothness changing gears because the jumps between cogs will still be the same)
14-28 would ordinarily give you less jumps between gears, and you wouldn't notice any difference really unless you're a fan of sprinting (no 11,12 or 13 tooth cog means practically nothing unless you like to get over about 23mph). However, I suspect with it being a 14-28, you've moved from 10/11 speed 105/Tiagra to a budget groupset like Sora or Claris, with maybe only 7 or 8 speeds (in which case, you won't notice any more smoothness changing gears because the jumps between cogs will still be the same)
Thanks Leroy. The old bike has 9 speed sora, the new one 7 speed tourney. I think 23 mph is plenty, I won’t be racing any time soon! As long as I can standover this one I’ll be more than happy
Got it delivered today. Took it for a quick test ride round the block and the size is much, much better. Well pleased. Hopefully now I'll be able to get back into cycling, ankle allowing.
Got it delivered today. Took it for a quick test ride round the block and the size is much, much better. Well pleased. Hopefully now I'll be able to get back into cycling, ankle allowing.
Got it delivered today. Took it for a quick test ride round the block and the size is much, much better. Well pleased. Hopefully now I'll be able to get back into cycling, ankle allowing.
What is it? Do you have a photo?
It’s a Brand X from chain reaction cycles. It’s cheap, but it doesn’t feel it! I’ve got the xs so it’s nice and light.
Got a photo of it next to my old bike and you can see the size difference - should’ve bought it ages ago. Ever since my ankle I’ve been afraid to ride the old one. As I’d have to stand on one foot when stopped, and it feels unnatural to stand on my left (the good one).
Only my second 20+ miler completed this morning, lot of catching up to do....
You'll get there. Weather is getting better - much easier to get yourself out on the bike when it isn't pissing down, freezing cold and blowing a gale!
well i squeezed a few more miles in when the weather improved then I broke my back wheel, shop assured me it was nothing to do with how fat i am but now squeezing rides around the rain again - I've currently done 168 miles of the tweaked @Leroy Ambrose schedule when I had planned to have done 210 miles by now. I'm off for a 2-week holiday soon and then after that there's a week at Infocomm and then its basically ride time....can't see this ending well although i have raised a few quid for the BHF so not all bad....
Trust me, on the day you'll get adrenaline going through you that will get you through the ride. It really isn't as difficult as it seems - it would be better if you could ride more ifte and longer beforehand, but you'll surprise yourself on the day...
@Leroy Ambrose I'm currently struggling along mate and wonder whether you have any words of wisdom.. You can see the TrainerRoad work I'm doing on the Strava feed, but it's not translating at all out on the road.. I find my legs aching very quickly, knees in particular, and then as soon as I hit a hill I've got nothing...lowest gear, legs spinning but getting nowhere (other than dropped).. Went out on Sat and set about 30 PRs on the way out through Kent as I tried to keep up with my mates but then headed home on my own and all back to slow norm... I'm following a training session on TR, but I just have no power....any advice?? (note: I'm not wanting to race, but I am in the Alps next weekend and then in the Pyrenees in June for a week, so I'm looking at sustained climbing and I just feel 'empty'... Bike is set up right as had it fitted, so know it's not that causing the aching legs/knees..). Cheers boss.
@Leroy Ambrose I'm currently struggling along mate and wonder whether you have any words of wisdom.. You can see the TrainerRoad work I'm doing on the Strava feed, but it's not translating at all out on the road.. I find my legs aching very quickly, knees in particular, and then as soon as I hit a hill I've got nothing...lowest gear, legs spinning but getting nowhere (other than dropped).. Went out on Sat and set about 30 PRs on the way out through Kent as I tried to keep up with my mates but then headed home on my own and all back to slow norm... I'm following a training session on TR, but I just have no power....any advice?? (note: I'm not wanting to race, but I am in the Alps next weekend and then in the Pyrenees in June for a week, so I'm looking at sustained climbing and I just feel 'empty'... Bike is set up right as had it fitted, so know it's not that causing the aching legs/knees..). Cheers boss.
Are you hitting your targets in the training plan? If you are, then one of a few things are likely to be causing the problem
1 - Your power zones are too low. In my experience, after a while when training to power, you tend to believe the numbers and your effort level gets psychologically tuned to it. So, you'd swear you were going balls out in an interval, for instance, but might actually be selling yourself short. Nowhere to hide out on the road, so a completely different kettle of fish. Easiest way to test this (short of a CP test) is to find a workout that you know should have you unable to complete the last couple of intervals and go at it full bore. If you can complete them, then you need to re-test
2 - Different kind of riding. Turbo is never going to replicate the same sort of ride outside, especially is you don't have something that automatically controls resistance according to gradient. If you suffer going up the hills because your trainer doesn't replicate that change in resistance, you can get too used to smashing out watts at tempo. I suffer from this a lot of I'm training for TTs - when I road race at the same time as TT season, I get no results because I'm not training for those constant accelerations and sprints lit of corners
3 - Your mates are stronger than you You killed yourself keeping up with them then died on the way back cos you're used to hour long sessions on TR, rather than 3 hour smashfests up Toys, Ide and Brasted...
4 - You're overtrained. Even if you aren't doing as much riding as you used to, you may well still have been hitting it too hard. Too much, too early is a common problem with people who used to be faster than they are, but haven't ridden much in the past few months. They think they should be back to where they were after a couple of weeks, and for the first few rides they feel fine. However, sooner or later, your body writes cheques your legs can't cash, and instead of listening to it and having a few days off, you fight through it - leading to fatigue.
No quick remedies to any of these unfortunately. For 1, retest (Urgh - FTP and power zone tests required!) For 2, ride outside and vary terrain IRL as much as possible. Marginally easier now the weather shouldn't be quite as shite for the next few months. For 3, ride with other people or just do solo rides for now, without the pressure of trying to keep up with quicker lads. You want a brilliant way of doing this? Find a local women's race team or fast group and see if you can go out with them. The pace won't be anything like as quick on the flat due to lack of willy-waving, but it will be absolutely fucking monstrous on hills For 4, try and perioidise what you do. Good way of doing this is to increase workload gradually over three weeks, then have a rest week where you do less. Then start the cycle again with a slightly elevated workload than in week 1 in the previous cycle.
You'll get there. The weather is improving, that always helps!
Tour de Yorkshire - what an absolutely epic stage today - amazing way to finish what must be the best supported race in the world outside the tour and the classics. Our local pro Ian Bibby will be totally made up finishing third and sprinting against Greg van Avermaet. Back down to Earth with a bump on Tuesday in the local crit against us choppers
Would anyone like a Wethepeople Reason for their kids? Hardly used, slick and knobbly tyres, stunt pegs. VGC. I've had some very strange people from Gumtree with stupid offers, so i'd rather give it to someone here to get their kids started cycling.
54 miles today in that heat. Not one of my better ideas! Bloody knackered now.
We did 56 miles. Took in a bit of the sweeps Festival in Rochester at halfway and then back to Plumstead. There were some right knobs driving today. Nearly got taken out 3 times by cars turning left around me and a quadbike was driving very aggressively at me and my partner. But all in all a good ride. Very thankful I slathered myself with sunscreen though.
Comments
Off for a google.
Five Ten FreeRides, perhaps?
I've just ordered myself a new bike. It's cheaper, less flashy, than my previous one, but I've gone for it as I can get it in an XS (50cm - 51cm) frame.
However, I've just noticed that the cassette range is different to my old bike. The old one was a 11-28, and the new one has a 14-28 tooth. Both are compact chainsets.
My question is - what, generally is the difference, and am I going to notice any difference on a day to day commute?
Got a photo of it next to my old bike and you can see the size difference - should’ve bought it ages ago. Ever since my ankle I’ve been afraid to ride the old one. As I’d have to stand on one foot when stopped, and it feels unnatural to stand on my left (the good one).
I'm off for a 2-week holiday soon and then after that there's a week at Infocomm and then its basically ride time....can't see this ending well although i have raised a few quid for the BHF so not all bad....
1 - Your power zones are too low. In my experience, after a while when training to power, you tend to believe the numbers and your effort level gets psychologically tuned to it. So, you'd swear you were going balls out in an interval, for instance, but might actually be selling yourself short. Nowhere to hide out on the road, so a completely different kettle of fish. Easiest way to test this (short of a CP test) is to find a workout that you know should have you unable to complete the last couple of intervals and go at it full bore. If you can complete them, then you need to re-test
2 - Different kind of riding. Turbo is never going to replicate the same sort of ride outside, especially is you don't have something that automatically controls resistance according to gradient. If you suffer going up the hills because your trainer doesn't replicate that change in resistance, you can get too used to smashing out watts at tempo. I suffer from this a lot of I'm training for TTs - when I road race at the same time as TT season, I get no results because I'm not training for those constant accelerations and sprints lit of corners
3 - Your mates are stronger than you
4 - You're overtrained. Even if you aren't doing as much riding as you used to, you may well still have been hitting it too hard. Too much, too early is a common problem with people who used to be faster than they are, but haven't ridden much in the past few months. They think they should be back to where they were after a couple of weeks, and for the first few rides they feel fine. However, sooner or later, your body writes cheques your legs can't cash, and instead of listening to it and having a few days off, you fight through it - leading to fatigue.
No quick remedies to any of these unfortunately.
For 1, retest (Urgh - FTP and power zone tests required!)
For 2, ride outside and vary terrain IRL as much as possible. Marginally easier now the weather shouldn't be quite as shite for the next few months.
For 3, ride with other people or just do solo rides for now, without the pressure of trying to keep up with quicker lads. You want a brilliant way of doing this? Find a local women's race team or fast group and see if you can go out with them. The pace won't be anything like as quick on the flat due to lack of willy-waving, but it will be absolutely fucking monstrous on hills
For 4, try and perioidise what you do. Good way of doing this is to increase workload gradually over three weeks, then have a rest week where you do less. Then start the cycle again with a slightly elevated workload than in week 1 in the previous cycle.
You'll get there. The weather is improving, that always helps!
Hardly used, slick and knobbly tyres, stunt pegs. VGC.
I've had some very strange people from Gumtree with stupid offers, so i'd rather give it to someone here to get their kids started cycling.
There were some right knobs driving today. Nearly got taken out 3 times by cars turning left around me and a quadbike was driving very aggressively at me and my partner.
But all in all a good ride. Very thankful I slathered myself with sunscreen though.