Right. So my trip to Qatar is nearly done and dusted, and as promised I’m happy to share some detail about the experience and the way things were set up out there.
I’ve done 15 games over 10 days so I feel like I got a very broad overview of how things were during that time.
Here’s a little disclaimer though……I had an absolutely fantastic time, and found that a lot of the set up during the tournament worked very well. More than I imagined.
If you have absolutely no interest in hearing about how someone enjoyed Qatar and the overall experience, then this might not be a post for you. Otherwise, strap yourselves in….
AIRPORT
We got into Hamad International Airport in Doha about 10pm on the Sunday evening of the first game of the tournament. Considering 30 other countries would be playing over the coming days, I was expecting the airport to be absolutely heaving.
To my surprise, it all seemed very calm. Lots of helpers and volunteers willing to point you in the right direction. No long queues to go through security and an 15 minute wait time to pick up the suitcase.
All very straightforward. Not too dissimilar to arriving at Gatwick or Heathrow. The only notable difference I recall was having to put hand luggage through a scanning machine before proceeding to baggage collection.
METRO
Getting on the metro to the accommodation, and the first thing I noticed was simply how quiet it all was.
Infact, one of the volunteers walked over to me on the platform whilst I was waiting and kindly asked if I wanted to take a seat. Felt a bit strange at the time, but I obliged and waited a few mins before getting on the first train that came and got a seat very easily once on board.
The metro could be described as a bit of a cross between Elizabeth Line (in terms of speed, and the lightness in which is moves) and the DLR. The stations all look quite similar but are all big and spacious.
Now the biggest concern I had about transport was how on earth was it going to handle the amount of traffic when more people arrived and there are multiple games a day etc.
Well…..there was absolutely no issue. None whatsoever. It ran like clockwork. Never once was the train too full where it was uncomfortable. And even if it was a bit full, you could easily get on the next one and get a seat. This is even after a game has just happened.
There were volunteers everywhere you looked - all treating the occasion in good spirit and humour. Similar sort of impression from what we saw at the 2012 Olympics for anyone who went to an event.
“Metro, this way!” has become a chant shared between the fans and volunteers as the week has gone on. Even heard it being sung at one of the games!
TRANSPORT BETWEEN STADIUMS
What makes this tournament extremely unique is that it allows people to go to multiple games per day.
All stadiums were within about a 50 mile radius. 6 of which were very easy to reach via the metro.
There were two others which had a bit more involved:
- Al Janoub: I went here for France vs Australia. You have to get a 15 min coach to/from the stadium to the metro.
- Al-Bayt: This was the furthest one to get to. Once you get to Lusail at the end of the red metro line, you then get a coach which takes about 30-40 mins to the stadium. Same after the game as well. I did this trip twice, both on days where I was going to a separate game earlier in the day.
Now, the idea of 40-60k people waiting to get on coaches to be shipped away sounded like a big hassle originally. But again, they were extremely prepared and once you would get to the coach pick up on either side, there would be literally dozens of coaches there. You would queue, but the queue would be moving the entire time. Really nowhere near as bad as it could have been.
However, if you didn’t fancy doing the metro - there would also be tons of coaches taking fans from one game to the next.
With the way the ticketing worked, you couldn’t go to back to back games. You could do games 1 and 3 on a given day, or alternatively games 1/4 or 2/4.
So you could go to the 4pm game, finish there at 6pm and then get onto a coach to take you to the 10pm game (and actually get there a lot earlier than you would need). Because it ran so efficiently, I often chose to get on the metro and go and have dinner somewhere else rather than heading straight to the next ground via this option.
In any of the scenarios where coaches were being used, whether it be mandatory (Al-Bayt and Al-Janoub) or through choice (stadium to stadium pick up) - it all ran flawlessly. This was helped by the fact that major roads were cordoned off to help with the flow.
Uber taxis were extremely cheap, and highly available.
STADIUMS
I managed to get to 7 of the 8 stadiums. A few of which I did 3-4 times. The only one I didn’t get to go to was Stadium 974 (the one built out of 974 shipping containers)
Many of you will have seen the stadiums so won’t need me to go into detail about how they look. They’re all very polished and look the part. In particular, Lusail is breathtaking. This is where the Final will be played and where I managed to see 4 games.
Entry to all stadiums needed the FIFA ticketing app (and a QR code that would activate via bluetooth once you got near the stadium), as well as presentation of your Haaya card. This is the card you would receive either physically or digitally before coming to Qatar and is effectively the visa to get into the country. You cannot get a Haaya card without accommodation being approved and on the record.
You’d have to go through some snaking metal barriers to get into the stadium perimeter. Once you’ve shown your ticket/Haaya you would then go through airport style security. No major queues though, and as long as you’d leave yourself enough time to walk from the metro to the perimeter and into the stadium then you wouldn’t have an issue.
The only major gripe I had with the stadiums was that it was step access only for the most part. So if you’re up in the gods at Lusail Stadium (level 7 for me on a couple of occasions), then you’d have to grit and bare the ascent for a good few minutes.
At the end of games you’ll likely have a bit of a queue to get on a metro, but nothing too outrageous. That’s unless you were at Lusail (88k capacity). I once waited over an hour to get in the metro after the Argentina/Saudi Arabia game. Partially my fault as I left the area of the stadium after most, just to enjoy the Saudi party.
In terms of food/drink in the stadiums and the perimeter - it was general football grub (hot dogs, burgers etc) but it wasn’t particularly great. Obviously no alcohol, but they did serve large cans of Budweiser Zero.
ACCOMODATION
I stayed in an apartment which was run by England supporters group. It was very well furnished and maintained. 5* set up. No complaints there at all.
I didn’t see or visit the fan village, but spoke to a lot of people who were staying there. Nobody seemed to be that disappointed with it. It did exactly what it said on the tin, and they knew what they were signing up for. Wi-Fi, general amenities and security ran fine by all accounts.
THE FANS
Now, this was the best bit.
Fans from all 32 countries were staying in the same city, which made for a brilliant atmosphere everywhere you went. You would get on the metro, and in the carriage you’d see club and international shirts from Mexico, England, Argentina, Australia - you name it.
Everyone got along. Did not see one bit of trouble, with the only exception being during the England and USA game when some England fans were rowing with each other about whether to stand/sit down.
Just within the first couple of days I reckon I’d seen at least someone from each of the 32 countries, and over the 10 days interacted with a lot of them. I got to see 23 different countries, and all of their fanbases had different little quirks and interesting things to enjoy.
The most prominent who had travelled were Saudi Arabia, Argentina, Mexico and USA. I reckon Wales had just as many, if not more, than England.
There were many fans who had come over from other parts of the Middle East and Asia to support countries that were not represented.
You’d get into great conversations with people about the clubs they support back home, and sharing stories about players who have represented both in some way or another (ie - chatting with an Iran fan before the England/Iran game about Reza, and also a couple of chats about Talal El-Karkouri with Moroccans).
Everyone just seemed to embrace the one off opportunity to have so many fans from all over the world in one place. Imagine a city sized World Cup version of Glastonbury, where you could see all the teams and fanbases you wanted in one place.
THE LOCALS
Couldn’t have been friendlier. Restaurants, bars, hotels - they couldn’t do enough for you.
A lot of the time they wouldn’t be of Qatari nationality. Couldn’t cite a single incident where they were not completely welcoming.
I did however go to one of Qatar’s matches, when they played Senegal. The atmosphere certainly felt a little subdued in the beginning, but once Qatar fashioned a few chances they started to get into it a bit more.
You’ll have likely noticed some stadiums were not completely full. One of the theories doing the rounds is that those tickets would have been bought very cheap by locals (who had access to Category 4 tickets) and then likely didn’t bother to go.
Security and police all polite and helpful. No issues that I saw.
ALCOHOL
As mentioned previously, just Budweiser Zero was served in the stadium perimeter. To be honest, it didn’t feel like it hindered the match day experience whatsoever. The pre/post match parties that I experienced for Saudi Arabia, Argentina and Ghana are some of the best I’ve ever witnessed. Alcohol, and where to get it/how much for only really seemed to be a topic on the lips of England fans.
And if you did want a drink - you could get it without too much trouble. Just walk into a hotel or bar and you’d be fine. Prices would range from about £7-£12 a pint. I personally didn’t bother too much with it, as I wanted to experience the atmosphere of being around the fans of the different countries I was going to see. That, and I simply didn’t have time considering the amount of games I was taking in.
Contrary to many predictions, there wasn’t any kind of rush of people turning up late to games simply because they were desperate for a drink elsewhere. The transport was so reliable that it wouldn’t have been an issue.
OTHER BITS
Doha is an interesting place. Most of the buildings look stunning, but then every 30 seconds or so driving through town you’d see a big glaring construction site that would look a bit out of place. You could tell that some of the shops/supermarkets had sprung up very, very quickly - but all were well stocked and served the purpose.
It really does feel like the entire city has come to a standstill to serve this tournament. The World Cup was everywhere you looked. You couldn’t escape it if you tried.
Would I come back? Probably not without a good reason. I didn’t have any negative experience of the place at all, but without a World Cup to be occupied with every day - you’d probably run out of things to do after a few days.
—-
On the whole - it was a fantastic trip. And every single day brought something new in terms of a footballing experience, aided by the fact I was able to see so many different countries (23 in total).
I know a lot of questions (and criticisms) rightfully remain about the tournament and everything surrounding it. But I will say that the day-to-day fan experience was a superb one, and as far as organisation/preparation goes - it has exceeded expectation in a massive way.
I’m conscious that this is an enormous post so I’ll stop there, but happy to answer any questions.
Great report Tom - and totally agree with all of the points - coming from Dubai last night, extremely smooth. Atmosphere in the pub before was buzzing and every having a good time. All the staff in and around the stadium were very helpful!
Only downside, we missed our flight back, as we went to the wrong airport....
But had a fantastic evening in Qatar, even though today is a LLLOOOOONNNNGGGG DAY!!
Talking of regimes with questionable human rights records, apparently the Chinese coverage has everyone wearing totally real and definitely not edited in face masks.... Allegedly.
Talking of regimes with questionable human rights records, apparently the Chinese coverage has everyone wearing totally real and definitely not edited in face masks.... Allegedly.
100% untrue.
A few days ago coverage was changed to not include any close ups of the crowd, in order to avoid shots of all the maskless fans.
Talking of regimes with questionable human rights records, apparently the Chinese coverage has everyone wearing totally real and definitely not edited in face masks.... Allegedly.
100% untrue.
A few days ago coverage was changed to not include any close ups of the crowd, in order to avoid shots of all the maskless fans.
I noticed that Harry Kane’s captain armband had ‘education for all’ on it in yesterdays game.
I’m assuming that, given the extreme offence that the Taliban Football Association are likely to take, that he will be suspended for the game against France now.
Or is it just ‘political’ messaging that might embarrass FIFA’s failings that are banned?
Yes that article almost made me think it would have been fun to be there.
I can tell you from experience that it was great fun, and the camaraderie between international fans and volunteers on the metro was a massive highlight.
A week to go before all journalists on the payroll roll out their 'actually it's not so bad over here' blog posts/columns and the sportswashing is complete.
Yes that article almost made me think it would have been fun to be there.
I can tell you from experience that it was great fun, and the camaraderie between international fans and volunteers on the metro was a massive highlight.
I believe you, and I’d now concede that in general terms the decision to bring the WC to this part of the world is probably vindicated by the fans who’ve been able to turn up in large numbers from countries where they’d have met obstacles if travelling to an England WC.
i still think it should not have gone to Qatar alone. Maybe a joint bid with Saudi and UAE, but that would not happen due to their own politics.
I also notice Saudi behaving as if 2030 is a shoe-in for them. Take a good long look at the TV spots around the ITV games. Look at the message. That stinks, and they can fuck off, just as I said Qatar should. Next time in this part of the world? I’d say Morocco. Maybe with Tunisia if that can work politically. Football pedigree there.
A week to go before all journalists on the payroll roll out their 'actually it's not so bad over here' blog posts/columns and the sportswashing is complete.
Money and blood well spent I am sure.
Right on cue.
Or maybe they are just reporting on the actual fan experience at the world cup, as I am sure a lot of people are interested in
certainly doesn't change my opinion of Qatar as a country.
Yes that article almost made me think it would have been fun to be there.
I can tell you from experience that it was great fun, and the camaraderie between international fans and volunteers on the metro was a massive highlight.
I believe you, and I’d now concede that in general terms the decision to bring the WC to this part of the world is probably vindicated by the fans who’ve been able to turn up in large numbers from countries where they’d have met obstacles if travelling to an England WC.
i still think it should not have gone to Qatar alone. Maybe a joint bid with Saudi and UAE, but that would not happen due to their own politics.
I also notice Saudi behaving as if 2030 is a shoe-in for them. Take a good long look at the TV spots around the ITV games. Look at the message. That stinks, and they can fuck off, just as I said Qatar should. Next time in this part of the world? I’d say Morocco. Maybe with Tunisia if that can work politically. Football pedigree there.
Saudi has had their eye on this for some time, and they’ve been throwing outrageous money at live sport/entertainment in recent years.
Morocco is one that has lingered for decades. They’ve lost out in their bids on a number of times, so their time would have to come as some point - as long as there still is interest.
An interesting take doing the rounds nowadays is that single countries won’t want to take on the tournament as a stand-alone in future. The ROI simply isn’t there, unless it’s potentially in a country which has all stadiums and infrastructure already built.
Hence the reason why most bids are joint between 2-3 countries now. I actually think this will be the final ‘single country’ World Cup.
A week to go before all journalists on the payroll roll out their 'actually it's not so bad over here' blog posts/columns and the sportswashing is complete.
Money and blood well spent I am sure.
Right on cue.
What’s funny is you clearly haven’t read the article before getting over excited and going back to quote your own prediction.
whilst i absolutely agree that Saudi can get stiffed, I’m not sure Morocco counts as the same part of the world.
I’m also certain the Uk would relax it’s visa requirements I’m order to host a World Cup.
It wasn’t my own original thought, but something I read about the fans who have made it out there. The thing that connects Morocco and Tunisia with Qatar and Saudi is Islam, which means easier travel across borders for the fans and less issue with the lack of alcohol. It would also neatly tick the box of giving “Africa” another crack.
I’d hope you’d be right about relaxing visa requirements but looking at the Patel/Braverman show, I would say it depends who is in power. Some fans definitely said they were worried about the issue but they were not specifically singling out the UK, as far as I recall. Sometimes its just the perceptions people have.
A week to go before all journalists on the payroll roll out their 'actually it's not so bad over here' blog posts/columns and the sportswashing is complete.
Money and blood well spent I am sure.
Right on cue.
What’s funny is you clearly haven’t read the article before getting over excited and going back to quote your own prediction.
"The experience of riding the trains is just as impressive. As an experience it is unfailingly pleasant. Driverless trains glide between stations with nary a bump. They arrive every three minutes (maybe five at 2am) and give you enough time to get on without rushing. “Event team members” on the platforms prevent overcrowding."
Sportswashing in a nutshell. It's funny you clearly don't get why they paid for the World Cup in the first place.
Comments
Only downside, we missed our flight back, as we went to the wrong airport....
But had a fantastic evening in Qatar, even though today is a LLLOOOOONNNNGGGG DAY!!
I still can't think of a single reason why Qatar got the gig apart from money.
Somewhere bigger with an established football culture - the human rights issue still remains.
Saudi Arabia seems the most likely - can't see Iran or Iraq getting the nod.
Talking of regimes with questionable human rights records, apparently the Chinese coverage has everyone wearing totally real and definitely not edited in face masks.... Allegedly.
A few days ago coverage was changed to not include any close ups of the crowd, in order to avoid shots of all the maskless fans.
"Hats off to Qatar"
Embarrassing.
I’m assuming that, given the extreme offence that the Taliban Football Association are likely to take, that he will be suspended for the game against France now.
Or is it just ‘political’ messaging that might embarrass FIFA’s failings that are banned?
https://www.theguardian.com/football/2022/dec/04/world-cup-2022-doha-metro-qatar
i still think it should not have gone to Qatar alone. Maybe a joint bid with Saudi and UAE, but that would not happen due to their own politics.
certainly doesn't change my opinion of Qatar as a country.
An interesting take doing the rounds nowadays is that single countries won’t want to take on the tournament as a stand-alone in future. The ROI simply isn’t there, unless it’s potentially in a country which has all stadiums and infrastructure already built.
I’d hope you’d be right about relaxing visa requirements but looking at the Patel/Braverman show, I would say it depends who is in power. Some fans definitely said they were worried about the issue but they were not specifically singling out the UK, as far as I recall. Sometimes its just the perceptions people have.
Sportswashing in a nutshell. It's funny you clearly don't get why they paid for the World Cup in the first place.