anyone had any experience with the practise of "tellington touch" or know a practitioner that you might recommend?
my dog gilbert a three year old rescue border collie, has nervous aggression, particularly at the vets.
he's improved tremendously in the 11 months I've had him but I'd like to see if we can get him comfortable at the vets because I've been fortunate so far, the treatment he's needed to date hasn't required him to be touched but of course there will come a time when he will.
In a dogs mind you take him to the vets to have a needle jabbed in him, a thermometer rammed up his arris or even have his nuts lopped off. I spent one walk a week from 12 weeks incorporating a visit to the vet for no reason whatsoever other than to show him something horrible not always going to happen. Pop in, explain to the receptionist what you are doing and why ask them to give him a treat, stick on the scales and then leave. He'll start to learn its not all bad.
Like you T.C.E., I have had German Shepherds for years, my last one died in July 2009, one month off of 14 years old. Because my wife (who went to a lot of dog shows many years ago), has always admired and wanted a Borzoi, we now have one. He is now 3 years old, never having a sight hound, who has nowhere the intelligence of a GSD, I have found his training very difficult. I took him to puppy training, where, although coming out top of the class, was very nervous around other dogs, (who were all smaller). My main problem now is, he loves people, and wants to meet everyone, (thank goodness), but he wants to chase every animal he sees, (dogs, cats, squirrals, etc), and I do not think it is to be friendly. I have tried meeting him with other dogs, but on the couple of occasions he did, he lunged forward, so I cannot trust him. Being a Borzoi, he rarely barks, but I can hear the growling in his chest, which others cannot hear. I have tried the food technique, which being greedy, works up to a point, but I don't think this behaviour will stop, until he is probably too old to do it. Unfortunately, in every other way, he is a lovely dog.
Like you I've been having horrendous problems with one of mine, mine being JJ. He's a very nervous dog who is at the horrible teenage stage of life, who's just found out he's got a per of b******s and is strutting his stuff, now bare in mind dogs develope later than bitches at around two half to three and he's only 19 months. If approached to quickly he would bark or even try to lunge, a dog as far as 50 yards away was a potential target. Anyhow, I recently kennelled my three back where Bailey was born and to see what she could do with him, she got in touch via FB showing me video of JJ running in a field with five or six Sheps in a field and we would speak on our return. On our return she bought JJ out alone but waiting in reception was a kennel maid with another dog, JJ looked made no sound, we were amazed. The other dog was removed and was asked to bring another dog out and I was given JJ. The dog appeared and straight away JJ reacted, up on his back legs barking and lunging. I then got asked if I'd forgotten the basics about dog control, the dogs focus. JJ was focussing on the other dog and I was allowing it to happen, checking my dog before the event and not waiting for it to happen and trying to repair the damage. Basically, I have to see the dog before him, and check him to get his attention. No talking, no eye contact with my dog if i feel the tension in the lead change then check him again and continue to do so until you have my dogs focus and the passing dog. JJ is getting there, he'll still react if another is pulling towards him or barking at him but we are getting there.
Thanks T.C.E. I have tried anticipating when another dog or cat appears, but was told not to get up tight as the dog can feel it down the lead. (By the way, I have had his b******s removed when younger). If when a dog on a lead comes towards us, and I feel him start, I make him sit and let the other dog pass, which helps, but not the answer. A breeder once told us that this breed do not mature until about 4 years old, so it looks like I have got another year of nervous walking. I take him out twice a day, for about an hour each time, but at least he keeps me fit, as I am well into retirement age, and I can hold him when needed.
Thanks T.C.E. I have tried anticipating when another dog or cat appears, but was told not to get up tight as the dog can feel it down the lead. (By the way, I have had his b******s removed when younger). If when a dog on a lead comes towards us, and I feel him start, I make him sit and let the other dog pass, which helps, but not the answer. A breeder once told us that this breed do not mature until about 4 years old, so it looks like I have got another year of nervous walking. I take him out twice a day, for about an hour each time, but at least he keeps me fit, as I am well into retirement age, and I can hold him when needed.
Try, giving him a check. Enough to make him look at you, keep walking stopping will give him time to focus on the dog. Your correct about your transmitted tension, so it's a sharp check and relax the lead and keep walking. Doing it this way you are already giving the dog two things to think about, so he's thinking about you tugging on his lead and walking and less time to think about the other dog. I hope this is making sense to you, it's quite difficult to put into words.
anyone had any experience with the practise of "tellington touch" or know a practitioner that you might recommend?
my dog gilbert a three year old rescue border collie, has nervous aggression, particularly at the vets.
he's improved tremendously in the 11 months I've had him but I'd like to see if we can get him comfortable at the vets because I've been fortunate so far, the treatment he's needed to date hasn't required him to be touched but of course there will come a time when he will.
In a dogs mind you take him to the vets to have a needle jabbed in him, a thermometer rammed up his arris or even have his nuts lopped off. I spent one walk a week from 12 weeks incorporating a visit to the vet for no reason whatsoever other than to show him something horrible not always going to happen. Pop in, explain to the receptionist what you are doing and why ask them to give him a treat, stick on the scales and then leave. He'll start to learn its not all bad.
I have been doing just that, I've also changed vets, I like the new ones approach, more observational at the moment.
my previous vet used a pole catcher on him, to give him a vaccination, which was not a good idea, freaked him out even more.
anyone had any experience with the practise of "tellington touch" or know a practitioner that you might recommend?
my dog gilbert a three year old rescue border collie, has nervous aggression, particularly at the vets.
he's improved tremendously in the 11 months I've had him but I'd like to see if we can get him comfortable at the vets because I've been fortunate so far, the treatment he's needed to date hasn't required him to be touched but of course there will come a time when he will.
In a dogs mind you take him to the vets to have a needle jabbed in him, a thermometer rammed up his arris or even have his nuts lopped off. I spent one walk a week from 12 weeks incorporating a visit to the vet for no reason whatsoever other than to show him something horrible not always going to happen. Pop in, explain to the receptionist what you are doing and why ask them to give him a treat, stick on the scales and then leave. He'll start to learn its not all bad.
I have been doing just that, I've also changed vets, I like the new ones approach, more observational at the moment.
my previous vet used a pole catcher on him, to give him a vaccination, which was not a good idea, freaked him out even more.
You are obviously a gentleman. I'd have rammed that up the vets arse.
So I have managed to talk the girls out of the Cockerdoodledandies etc and back onto Schnauzer.
Hoping to go and see some mums and dads / pups tomorrow - what do I look out for and what are the major things to avoid ?
NLA is the Schnauzer man, but I would look for a pup that is not sitting away from its. Siblings all shy and timid and by the same you don't want one that's ripping lumps out them. Sit on the floor and get amongst them, click your fingers see what pups approach inquisively if they run away, also best avoided. Avoid making a decision with your heart, rescues are full of dogs where that's been done, Dont be afraid to walk away if there's anything you don't like, don't be pressured into buying. Any breeder worth their salt will offer a puppy pack, a bag of the grub they are weaned onto they will normally have had at least one jab. They will also offer you a contract with the promise that should your circumstances change the puppy is returned to them for re homing, no breeder wants their puppies in rescues it should also contain breeding ang export restrictions. If your seeing pups for the first time, expect 101 questions from the breeder and if they are talking money within 30 minutes then leave. Any pedigree puppy below £600 or offered with no papers or papers to follow!! (Walk away) seven weeks is the very earliest any pup should leave its siblings normally mum is removed a little after weaning to let her recover from the birth and feeding them, but she should still be available to see if not (walk away) dad it's not always possible, but should be asking his name and googling his breeding, you want to see five generations on both sides as well as health checks. I've probably missed something, but I'll add it later.
I'm up to three and working on a fourth. I got sent these yesterday, Bailey (on his own) started to blow his coat just before he went into kennels last week and then Xena, Bailey and JJ in the 3 ball photo. The girls in the kennels have worked wonders with Bailey who looked like an exploded matteress last Tuesday.
Odd experience yesterday - went to see a Schnauzer pup and the owner breeds dogs - seemed to have 3 adult Schnauzer and 2 Bijon (?) - nice family set up, all dogs looked well and we'll treated, big garden etc. Have Googled the owner's name and nothing negative at all but claims that he / she doesn't do KC registration as only breeds for pet use.
All seemed good but not sure. 10 week pup -quite yappy but calmable. He / she seems to alternate the bitches between pure Schnauzer and Crosses. They had a cross as well which was lovely, very calm and chilled but I want a bit more of "a dog".
Any recommended Schnauzer breaders within striking distance of M25 J10 ?
Odd experience yesterday - went to see a Schnauzer pup and the owner breeds dogs - seemed to have 3 adult Schnauzer and 2 Bijon (?) - nice family set up, all dogs looked well and we'll treated, big garden etc. Have Googled the owner's name and nothing negative at all but claims that he / she doesn't do KC registration as only breeds for pet use.
All seemed good but not sure. 10 week pup -quite yappy but calmable. He / she seems to alternate the bitches between pure Schnauzer and Crosses. They had a cross as well which was lovely, very calm and chilled but I want a bit more of "a dog".
Any recommended Schnauzer breaders within striking distance of M26J10 ?
Both Bailey and JJ were sold to me as "Pet Homes only" which means the breeders don't want you breeding from them without appropriate health checks and both of them have KC registered breeders. Which in the case of German Shepherds would Hip and Elbow Displacer for both sexes and haemophilia for the males. Displacier scoring is done with X-ray and for example who is hip scored at 4 & 6 and elbows 0 & 0 which very good scoring, but hasn't been haemophilia tested because he has Hypothyroidism and it would weaken the breed, so even if he had his nuts wouldn't be bred from by any reputable breeder. There's one sentence, the first one in the second paragraph which I think answers your question......... " All seemed good, but I'm not sure" go with that thought. I would willing go with you for a second opinion if you had said "all seemed good, but I just want a second opinion" It's getting towards "silly season" when most breeders won't be be producing pups as it would make the puppies ready around Christmas time and they wouldn't puppies being returned in January because "it seemed like a good idea at the time" but I'll see what I can find out as far as puppies are concerned.
we've been looking at getting a new chocolate or black lab, can anyone recommend a good breeder, must be full KC and ideally additional health checks etc
Saw some tonight that were 'half pedigree' and they wanted full whack £550, tried to stop the missus even going there, trying to explain they just aren't worth that, its not that they wouldn't be a great dog, its just the breeder is taking the piss at the asking price. Am I wrong here?
What is a half pedigree? either it is pedigree or not, if a pedigree dog is mixed with a non pedigree, it is a mongrel, mixing two different breeds, even if pedigee's (called a designer dog), is still a mongrel. Mongrels can be got from RSPCA as well as some pedigree's
we've been looking at getting a new chocolate or black lab, can anyone recommend a good breeder, must be full KC and ideally additional health checks etc
Saw some tonight that were 'half pedigree' and they wanted full whack £550, tried to stop the missus even going there, trying to explain they just aren't worth that, its not that they wouldn't be a great dog, its just the breeder is taking the piss at the asking price. Am I wrong here?
What is a half pedigree? either it is pedigree or not, if a pedigree dog is mixed with a non pedigree, it is a mongrel, mixing two different breeds, even if pedigee's (called a designer dog), is still a mongrel. Mongrels can be got from RSPCA as well as some pedigree's
Completely agree mate, but at least a cross breed can have a pedigree, a half would be where only one parent is pedigree
Half pedigree, normally means one of the dogs has no papers. It can be 100% whatever? German Shepherd, Labrador etc. By comparrision i wouldn't buy a car with no log book because it could lead to problems, for that same reason buying a Labrador with no papers would mean it's hip scoring is not registered with the kc (or not scored at all) Interested in your comment Rasil, " Crossbreeds can have a pedigree" this is a genuine question. A Poodle and Labrador both with fantastic pedigrees are mated, now other than having a well thought out name. Crossing one breed with another is surely a crossbreed? Now I don't have any problem with Crossbreeds they make fantastic dogs and companions but as has been said many times, you can go to many rescues and find a crossbreed of your choice without paying 800+ quid for it.
I rent a paddock, they sprint for 30 minutes while I stand there and watch. Fantastic watching them at full tilt, l wouldn't like to be a bad guy with one of them chasing me. Bailey is working with a young autistic lad on Saturday, it's great to see the pleasure my boys can bring.
we've been looking at getting a new chocolate or black lab, can anyone recommend a good breeder, must be full KC and ideally additional health checks etc
Saw some tonight that were 'half pedigree' and they wanted full whack £550, tried to stop the missus even going there, trying to explain they just aren't worth that, its not that they wouldn't be a great dog, its just the breeder is taking the piss at the asking price. Am I wrong here?
Dogs are for life not just Christmas Only buy a dog for Christmas gift if you are prepared to look after it once the decorations come down because the draw of play stations and X boxes become more appealing to kids than walking a dog on a cold wet windy winters evening
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my previous vet used a pole catcher on him, to give him a vaccination, which was not a good idea, freaked him out even more.
Hoping to go and see some mums and dads / pups tomorrow - what do I look out for and what are the major things to avoid ?
Or 4!
I got sent these yesterday, Bailey (on his own) started to blow his coat just before he went into kennels last week and then Xena, Bailey and JJ in the 3 ball photo. The girls in the kennels have worked wonders with Bailey who looked like an exploded matteress last Tuesday.
All seemed good but not sure. 10 week pup -quite yappy but calmable. He / she seems to alternate the bitches between pure Schnauzer and Crosses. They had a cross as well which was lovely, very calm and chilled but I want a bit more of "a dog".
Any recommended Schnauzer breaders within striking distance of M25 J10 ?
There's one sentence, the first one in the second paragraph which I think answers your question......... " All seemed good, but I'm not sure" go with that thought. I would willing go with you for a second opinion if you had said "all seemed good, but I just want a second opinion"
It's getting towards "silly season" when most breeders won't be be producing pups as it would make the puppies ready around Christmas time and they wouldn't puppies being returned in January because "it seemed like a good idea at the time" but I'll see what I can find out as far as puppies are concerned.
http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/acbr/display.aspx?id=4178202&breed=4096&breedName=Miniature Schnauzer&county=Kent
Having persuaded the family to go with a Schnauzer I came home from work last night to be told we've bought a Cockapoo. Born yesterday morning.
Saw some tonight that were 'half pedigree' and they wanted full whack £550, tried to stop the missus even going there, trying to explain they just aren't worth that, its not that they wouldn't be a great dog, its just the breeder is taking the piss at the asking price. Am I wrong here?
http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/services/public/findapuppy/
Completely agree mate, but at least a cross breed can have a pedigree, a half would be where only one parent is pedigree
Interested in your comment Rasil, " Crossbreeds can have a pedigree" this is a genuine question. A Poodle and Labrador both with fantastic pedigrees are mated, now other than having a well thought out name. Crossing one breed with another is surely a crossbreed? Now I don't have any problem with Crossbreeds they make fantastic dogs and companions but as has been said many times, you can go to many rescues and find a crossbreed of your choice without paying 800+ quid for it.
Excitement abounds
All 4 of mine waiting for me tonight to take them out after a 15 hour shift
As if I wasn't knackered enough?
Wouldn't buy one of these new cross/mix designer dogs as no one knows what long term health issues lie in store as not been round long enough
Only buy a dog for Christmas gift if you are prepared to look after it once the decorations come down because the draw of play stations and X boxes become more appealing to kids than walking a dog on a cold wet windy winters evening